The Knitting Community Responds to We Are Knitters’ Collaboration with Zara
We Are Knitters’ announcement of their collaboration with Zara took knitstagram by storm this week. In this blog post, we are going to dive into the basics of fast vs. slow fashion, what the collab controversy is all about, and hear from just a few of the knitters who have chosen to speak out about the topic.
Fast Fashion Basics
Before diving into the details of the collaboration, it’s important to understand what fast fashion is and how it is typically rejected among knitters. So here’s a little definition for you:
Fast fashion is an industry system of textile manufacturing that makes batches of cheap but trendy garments quickly.
In order to be maintained, this system relies on a substantial number of unethical practices. Fast fashion results in:
The overproduction of clothing as companies try to keep up with trends, they make a lot of styles quickly with many garments going to waste if they aren’t purchased within the short time period they keep them on the store floor.
The overconsumption of clothing as people are able to buy a lot of clothes cheaply, and then dispose of them quickly, either because the quality is poor or because they go out of style soon after purchasing.
Large amounts of waste due to all of the overproduction and overconsumption. For example, more than 1 billion pounds of textile waste ends up in landfills every year in Australia alone.
Large amounts of pollution because textile manufacturing requires a lot of energy and, typically, nonrenewable resources.
Violations of human rights as large fast fashion companies typically outsource to developing countries and exploit workers. Many have been accused of utilizing slave and child labor.
There are many harmful impacts of fast fashion, and unfortunately, these unethical practices are hard to bring to the light and are often swept under the rug.
Click here to learn 10 awesome ways to be a more sustainable knitter!
Slow Fashion and the Knitting Community
The slow fashion movement began in opposition to fast fashion, and advocates for ethical and sustainable fashion creation that respects people, the environment, and animals.
Many people in the knitting community place a high value on sustainable fashion. Knitters understand the labor that goes into making a garment. Some knitters even began knitting as a way to opt out of fast fashion, while others began to appreciate the value of slow fashion as knitting became a regular hobby for them.
Going even further, many knitters also want to make sure that the yarn they are using is coming from a sustainable source to ensure that the workers and animals used in the production process were treated fairly and respectfully.
Click here to learn about the most and least sustainable yarns.
Ultimately, many of the folks in the knitting community consider sustainability a top priority. Enter: We Are Knitters.
Who is We Are Knitters?
In case you somehow haven’t heard of them, here’s a quick rundown: We Are Knitters is a Spain-based brand that sells yarn and knitting kits geared toward a younger generation of knitters. Due to their stated values of sustainability, their sponsorships of several small knitwear designers, their range of yarns, and their persistent marketing, they have become very popular in the knitting community.
Who is Zara?
Zara is the top fast-fashion retailer across the world. Despite Zara’s founder Amancio Ortega being incredibly wealthy (and even holding the title as the richest man in the world for a moment in 2015), and Zara being valued at over $14 billion, Zara has been accused of not paying their workers, using slave and child labor, as well as exploiting Syrian refugees. Zara embodies all that is wrong with fast fashion, and the slow fashion members of the knitting community are acutely aware of this.
Click here to learn more about the difference between fast, sustainable, and slow fashion.
The We Are Knitters and Zara Collaboration Rundown
Now that we know the players and some basics on fast vs. slow fashion, let’s dive in. If you’re completely new to this subject, I’m sure you’re curious as to why these two companies would ever consider collaborating. The thing is: So. Are. We.
Last week, We Are Knitters announced their “#dreamcollab” with Zara. You can check out the Instagram Reel that announced the collaboration (there were a lot of comments on this Reel expressing disappointment, hurt, and anger about the collaboration, but We Are Knitters has since removed comments from the post). The collaboration consists of selling two different crochet kits in Zara stores. One is a phone case kit and it includes a ball of cotton yarn, a crochet hook, and a pattern. The other is a bucket hat kit, which includes the same thing, but an additional ball of yarn. They are each being sold at the super accessible price of 49.99 GBP, or 65.82 USD (I hope you could hear my sarcasm coming through there).
Many knitters were immediately appalled by this announcement, as this collaboration completely goes against We Are Knitters’ stated ethics on slow fashion. For example, on their website, We Are Knitters states:
“If knitting your own sweater takes you more than a week and costs more than $90, how can other brands produce them in less than one day for under $20? We encourage everyone to think about the labor, costs, and production processes that we’re supporting. By doing this, we have an opportunity to reduce pollution and our impact on the environment.”
However, their crochet kits that are being sold for 49.99 at Zara are sitting next to crochet tops that are being sold for 19.99 GBP. And it is extremely important to note that crochet can only be made by hand, meaning that the worker(s) who made the top that’s linked are being underpaid.
So it stands to reason that knitters were not happy.
The Response from We Are Knitters
For a few days following the collaboration announcement, We Are Knitters continued posting as if nothing had happened. On every post following the announcement, knitters would demand an explanation for their reasons in the comments. Finally, they gave a response. The response was not an apology, but an explanation of how they justified the collaboration, and it actually made the situation worse for them. Many were upset that:
They referred to themselves as a “small business”. We Are Knitters has an annual revenue of $4 million, and they can technically be considered a small business. I'm not sure of Spain's regulations, but in the United States, companies making up to $7 million (and sometimes even more) can fall into that category. However, this statement did not sit well with many people because the knitting community is filled to the brim with solo-preneurs who work hard to simply sustain themselves.
They said that their goal was to raise awareness of DIY culture, although the 150 kits being sold didn’t include any additional educational materials. And if purchased by a non-crafter, it's possible that the consumer may give up on the project, leading to more waste.
They stated that they won’t be making a profit from this collaboration. However, it is safe to assume that Zara is making a profit. And ultimately, WAK is increasing their brand awareness in this collaboration to (get this) make a profit.
The Response from the Knitting Community
New Wave Knitting focuses on celebrating a love of crafting, fostering a positive knitting community, and promoting sustainable fashion, so I knew I had to share about the We Are Knitters (WAK) and Zara collaboration as soon as it was announced. However, I didn’t want this to be just about my response, because we as a community are upset, frustrated, and disappointed. To illustrate that, here are just some of the voices who shared their thoughts with me:
Alexa M. (@fiberofherbeing): A Summary
I was surprised when I heard about WAK’s collab with Zara. I’ve never been a huge cult fan of WAK, but I did appreciate their desire for slow fashion and to make knitting “easy” to get into with kit formats. I also really liked how they would collab with upcoming designers, giving them the exposure they might not otherwise have. Those are the main reasons why I was so shocked to see them partnering with Zara, a brand known for being a major fast fashion retailer, with a history of sketchy business practices, not paying workers living wages, and having direct responsibility in promoting rapid consumption which ultimately creates so much waste and environmental harm! WAK should be listening to the questions and concerns and wholeheartedly engaging in the conversation. We should expect more from companies with money, power, privilege, and a platform to make a change. I would love to see WAK step up and do better, elevating and supporting indie makers and the slow fashion movement, but we will see. Regardless of if they do, there are so many incredible makers in our knitting community. We might have to work harder to find them, but I’m so grateful to be a part of the wonderfully diverse and sustainably-minded makers in the fiber community!
Marie S. (@dadou.knits): Zara’s Reputation for Stealing Designs
While many highlight the sustainability issues of fast fashion, I also want to bring attention to another crucial problem with Zara: copyright/copycat controversies, in particular regarding independent small brands/designers (source). Historically, Zara has made its success and name on the idea of affordable AND trendy fashion. This meant copying other popular designs. Online examples of controversies and lawsuits are endless.
Furthermore, considering that the fiber arts community is hugely made up of these independent designers, with many copycat issues involving fast fashion giants, how ethical is it for WAK to collaborate with a company like Zara? What message does it send to these small designers trying to make a profit from their patterns & hard work?
Courtenay S. (@littlebookofyarn): Simply Put, There Are Other Brands
I just really don't understand why a business like WAK would partner up with Zara specifically. Surely there are other 'big brands' with more ethical business practices that would have been open to a partnership.
Leane K. (@milky.way.knits): Devil’s Advocate
I think this entire situation has really brought to light the issue of greenwashing. My initial reaction was that Zara was totally using a collaboration with WAK as a greenwashing hack to quell some of the criticism they've gotten regarding the harmful effects of fast fashion (but of course, this also assumes Zara cares about that criticism). The more I talked about it though, the more I realized, maybe we as yarn consumers had fallen victim to WAK's greenwashing techniques this whole time... because clearly, they've shown that they are willing to sacrifice their environmental ethics and mission just for money/popularity.
The devil's advocate in me thought, hey, maybe WAK is trying to change fast fashion from within. But in a hot second, I realized that that was a dubious thought because there is no way a small collaboration (from Zara's perspective) like this can influence Zara's harmful production line, overconsumption ideology, and unfair treatment of its workers for the better.
As for the knitting and crochet community, I hope we can all take this moment to recognize the impact of where we choose to spend our money and time. Sure, me deciding not to spend a $100 yarn order at WAK probably won't make or break their business, but when we consider our actions together as a community, it will. There are much better yarn businesses that we can be supporting out there, especially for that amount of money (WAK ain't cheap lol).
Makaylah B. (@makayluuuhhh): Reaction to the We Are Knitters Response to the Collaboration
Their response feels like such a cop-out. They didn't say anything that we didn't expect them to pull out as an excuse and it doesn't remedy the situation at all.
Their first point about having their main goal as a company to be spreading DIY culture is a weak excuse. If this was the real reason, they could have turned down this offer from Zara and found a brand that had values that aligned with the ones they claimed they had. Zara was chosen for the reach it could offer them.
They claim that they aren't making a profit off of this collab but they do know for sure that this will lead to the growth of their brand. That is the entire nature of a collab; funneling some of the supporters of the other collaborator to your circle. Still calling this collab a 'no-brainer' after undoubtedly hearing all the disgusting things to come out about Zara's business practices over the last few years proves this.
This reminds me of an Audre Lorde quote that I keep in mind when thinking of how to use my activism. She wrote, "For the master’s tools will never dismantle the master’s house. They may allow us to temporarily beat him at his own game, but they will never enable us to bring about genuine change." WAK will get their money from this collab, Zara will sell the kits and people will make their crafts.
But what is everyone ACTUALLY learning from this? More companies will abandon their values to collab with Zara and other fast fashion brands to grow their consumer base. Assuming these kits aren't wasted and discarded (creating more waste), consumers will buy them learning nothing of a sustainable practice or how to engage with it ethically. They also won't learn the consequences of shopping at a fast fashion retailer. They bought a kit they enjoyed from Zara, why would they stop shopping there? And most importantly. Zara will continue to be the giant that they are. Creating exorbitant amounts of waste, polluting airways and water, and exploiting workers while still claiming to be eco-friendly by collaborating with 'enviro-conscious' brands when it's trendy for them to do so.
Lorde's quote was talking about other oppressive systems but it easily lends its knowledge to others. This is how capitalism thrives. Feigning ignorance and following the system, “using the master's tools," thinking it will make a change.
Clara V. (@claras_knits): On WAK’s “Sustainable Practices”
I have had my questions about WAK's business practices for a while now. I had a course last semester on corporate social responsibility, and we had to choose a company to write our final paper about. I initially wanted to write about WAK. But after trying to do some research, all I could find were some claims and vague statements. No actual information could be found anywhere to support these claims about their so-called sustainable practices and how they treat those involved in the production process. With all the information I have from WAK and what I learned in that course, I can confidently say that WAK’s corporate social responsibility practices are below what they should be for a company that is trying to break the fast fashion cycle.
Anonymous Knitfluencer: Being a We Are Knitters sponsor
I have many opinions that I’m sure others will also hold, so I’ll instead shed some light on how this makes me feel as a creator who was collaborating with WAK up until this announcement. To be completely honest, I feel blindsided and misled. It feels unfair that I should now lose income from their sponsorships (yes, they were actually finally paying me!) because of their inability to uphold their own supposed values. I and many others agreed to promote their products under the guise of our shared values and this just feels like a total betrayal. It also just sucks for them because they are going to lose a huge portion of their current influencer marketing pool.
It’s extremely disappointing as someone who is trying to take knitting full time and paid social media sponsorships can be a huge help in that, but also don’t come often in the knitting space. It doesn’t feel like a situation where I can say “oh well, there are heaps of other big brands out there” because there aren’t! Most are unwilling to pay us despite the labor being significantly higher than traditional sponsored posts where you don’t have to literally knit something to produce content.
Hopefully, this allows people to get an insight into how this is negatively impacting your favorite knitfluencers. I am so proud to see everyone speaking out and holding them accountable! I sent them a long email which was not an easy thing to do considering they are technically my employer, but I too was enraged, especially by their failure to address the backlash. Hopefully, they will at least respond to my email and I’ll get some closure on our partnership lol.
Maddie P. (@_maddie_palmer): Moving Away from Fast Fashion
It frustrates me. I've been trying to move away from fast fashion for the last 3-4 years for ethical and environmental reasons. I started knitting as an enjoyable hobby which merged with my love for slow fashion. It's very disheartening to see one of the bigger knitting companies promoting and working with a company that has shown complete disregard for the environment and for its workers. For me personally, WAK wasn't super accessible in the first place as I live in New Zealand so shipping was very expensive, plus we have lots of local yarn companies, which is my preference. However, it has disappointed me greatly and it will be hard for me to support them in the future.
Madeline L. (@granny.atheart): We Are Knitters Being a “Small Business”
We Are Knitters claimed they were a “small business” in their response post, but they're one of the largest and trendiest yarn producers. Everyone: shop your local yarn store, shop from hand-dyers, and shop ethical yarns (non-mulesing and natural fiber). I've only bought once from WAK, but I can't see myself being again because when you collab with fast fashion, you are fast fashion. Fixing their reputation would require an apology and an acknowledgment of Zara's practices. Also pulling out from the collab wouldn't hurt.
Lara B. (@theknittingbooth): On yarn companies and We Are Knitters guilt
The issues with Zara go without saying, but I think what we have to remember is that these yarn companies are still large and commercial, and their primary goals are to make money and grow. I don’t know that we can expect large companies to align with our personal principles of sustainability and environmentalism because fundamentally these principles don’t align with the consumerism they’re part of.
That said, there are some benefits of how huge WAK is! Their advertisement campaigns have done wonders for the popularity of knitting and have attracted some amazing people to the knitsta community. At this stage, I think we have to alter our expectations for We Are Knitters and Wool and the Gang. It's pretty clear that they don’t align with most of us on slow fashion and reducing consumerism. I doubt that WAK will genuinely regain our trust. They’re another large company employing greenwashing, I sadly doubt there’s much more to it.
Finally, I’ve spoken to some knitters who now feel guilty for having WAK in their stash. I don’t think anyone should feel guilt or shame in having bought WAK or even continuing to use WAK products. In the end, making your own clothes is a sustainable practice pretty much regardless of what yarn you’re using. But we could still use this to take a moment to consider our own practices—should we slow down? Make less? Shop local?
Addie B. (@breese.knits): Slow Fashion in the Fiber World
Fast fashion is not compatible with sustainability. Many fiber artists are passionate about slow fashion, creating a connection to your clothing and keeping it in good condition for years to come. Mending and wearing what you have, thrifting, and making responsible clothing choices. Sustainability is also very important for a lot of knitters/crocheters. Making your own clothes is a way to take power back from corporations and the larger systems at play that oppress people around the world. It’s a chance to be self-sufficient and to rely a little less on corporations.
I see fast fashion as a manifestation of capitalism. Fast fashion is a great example of the “treadmill of production/consumption” sociological theories that refer to the processes by which industrial systems achieve consistent growth, that the pursuit of profits has led to an unsustainable demand for raw materials, and that happiness is achieved through acquiring material things.
I am so grateful to be a part of a community that shares these values and is willing to speak out when a situation such as this happens. It's important that we do so because as Makaylah B. points out above, we don’t want this type of collaboration to become an industry standard. We make a vote with every purchase, and as Leanna K. explains, our actions together as a community can make a difference.
I think many crafters in the community would like to see We Are Knitters cancel the collaboration, apologize, and make a commitment to do better. And if they choose not to do that, then we’d like to see them remove the value statements of sustainability on your website so as not to mislead customers on their values.
Fellow knitters, you can choose to support We Are Knitters if you wish, but we encourage you to shop local and shop small. We would also like to remind you that if you have a WAK referral code being shared with other knitters, you have the choice to take that down.
Lastly, if you found this blog post to be helpful, please be sure to share with a knitting pal who you think would find this interesting. Thank you.